U9O.net: You and I Know.

[Via BBC]

The world’s biggest cola companies have won their legal battle to overturn a ban on their products in the southern Indian state of Kerala. A court has ruled that the ban on sale and production of Coca-Cola and Pepsi was “harsh, unjust and arbitrary”.
The ban was imposed in August following a report by a Delhi-based NGO that the drinks contained harmful pesticides.
Both Coke and Pepsi argued that their drinks were totally safe for consumption.
The ban in Kerala effectively closed a market of 30m potential customers overnight.

The Only Place, located in Bangalore, is one of the few steak houses in the Bangalore area. If you are an ex-pat like me, you probably remember moaning at the lack of beef here upon arrival, but The Only Place is a worthy alternative to finer steak establishments in the United States– the atmosphere isn’t bad, and they have pretty good choice of  steaks for a decent price.

The restaurant itself is an open-air affair, with the outside impressions muted and positively bland. Walk up the long drive way, past a brightly lit glass walled magazine store(and by magazine store, I really do mean magazine– it’s all they sell there). The tables are covered with standard utilitarian red and white checkered vinyl table clothes that are arranged around an open-air center. It tends to be packed with foreigners, some still holding bags from an airplane flight (or perhaps– going out of Bangalore).

The food is generally quite good. The vegetables in the salad has always consistantly been fresh– with good quality and firm texture that speaks well of the suppliers. The impression of the garlic bread suffers in comparison, and is a hastily done affair with off-the-shelf garlic spread. Eat it quickly, because it tends to cool down quickly. The spinich stuffed mushrooms is a starter is a highly recommended entry into your beef journey.

The service is generally good, in relative Bangalorian terms, and the staff generally have very good english and service mannerisms. But you didn’t really want to know about that, did you?

The steaks are what I would consider above average in terms of what I am used to in California (certainly beats Sizzlers), and there were ups and downs the half a dozen times I’ve been there. They never had my favorite cut of steak, the Rib-eye, but the Chateau Briand supreme is generally good. The double filet mignon platter (~350 rupees) was excellent for the price, but a tad under-cooked (I ordered it medium, but came out more of a medium rare). The steaks aren’t the finest out there, which is understandable, given that the cuts probably aren’t available as dependability as in other parts of the world, but the chefs do a good job of tenderizing and making do with what they have. Better quality broiler may help, as the steaks are uniformly moist– usually, the best tasting steaks have a multi-layered quality about them, with a harder crust on the outside, with a juicier filling on the inside.

Located on Museum Road. If you are coming from Brigade, go to Church St, then make a left onto Museum Road.

A big thanks to the great dentists at Apolo Clinnic, in Koramangala, Bangalore. They fixed a slight gap in in my front teeth (caused by not wearing a retainer after braces) without using crowns or changing any part of my natural teeth (US dentists told me that it would require a cap). This procedure was much less invasive and was really inexpensive. What they did was widen and extend my incisor using fillings– so in the future, another dentist can just chip it away and fill it again, if necessary. Very professional! Total cost was 1500 rupees (around $30 US). If I did it in the US, the dentists probably would have drilled down my tooth and put a porcelin cap over it. A much more invasive procedure (and more expensive, probably around $400 US).

Last Friday we formed a little group for some river rafting action at Cauvery/Kalvery about 80 kilometers south-west from Bangalore. Much like anything else in India, it’s the officials that are the most problematic. And the monkeys.

After an hour or drive, we stopped by some villages for some firewood. Don’t bother, it’s a waste of time, as firewood can be found at the various camping sites near the river. For the foreigner and anyone else, bring a lot of cash so that you can bribe the various officials who will demand permission slips that don’t exist or otherwise hard to find. Also, various villages will attempt to block your path in order to exact a toll.

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Be sure to ask whether a specific camp ground has a temple nearby, as the cooking of non-veg products is frowned upon and impetus for more fines. Do bargain and haggle, and don’t be afraid, but as we learned, too much of that can lead to bigger fines (although a few negotiating tactics including europeans and americans along with our indian friends acting confused and frightened helped it a little bit) On the whole, it should not be more than 1000 in fees and such (this is a high end estimate, if you bargain, as we also had transportation across the river to a nice secluded island of sorts).

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Yesturday was a good day for me in terms of exposure. Desipundut.com very courteously linked my site on their site. Quickly following that, blogger Sudha, and blogging site Bangalore Bytes both made some positive comments.

Sudha’s recent article is a thoughtful piece on the subject of skin color– something that I’ve come to realize is a reality wherever you go. In the USA, South America, Mexico, Korea, China, Japan, Phillipines, Africa, — heck whereever you go, the “fairer” colored are favored. How much of that is western influence I do not know, but I do know that this prejudice has deep roots.

Bangalore Bytes remarks with skepticism on the recent hoopla over the pesticide content in soft drinks. As an avid addict to Coke (no, not the drug, silly), of the diet kind, it’s been a struggle for me to decide whether to continue drinking the stuff here. In the end, anyway, I’m an addict, and I think I’ll stick with my daily routine of 2-3 (or more) soft drinks a day.

The general demographics of bloggers seem to be mostly people in the IT and tech industries. I’m perhaps not the best person to convince others of the fallacies of that notion, but it seems to follow the trends I remember in the early 2000s. Pretty soon, you’ll have the likes of webcam girls (in the Bollywood style) with hordes of male bloggers vying for attention. Then you’ll have the general subversion of mass media by the growing power of Indian bloggers. Prediction: Expect to see major political scandals revealed exclusively through blogs, if it hasn’t happened already.

Tips:

If you are obviously a foreigner, it may seem difficult to bargain or haggle on items. With some items you can bargain as much as 20% of the original price (80% off the original price). Here are some tips:

1. Be prepared to walk away. You can probably find that t-shirt somewhere else for a lot cheaper. That being that, know what the standard price is for items. A tshirt for 100 rupees can be found– a brand name knock off can be found for 200-300 rupees.
2. If you are buying a lot of stuff, it’s easier to bargain. My favorite tactic is bargain a price for two items. Then add about 3 more items. A 1000 rupees, equivalent to around 20 US dollars, is quite a chunk of change, and it’s eaiser to bargain when you make it more profitable for the merchant. Then ask the total price for the 5 items– he will most likely give you a non discounted price taking into account the 5 items you now have. Now bargain for a little bit. Then if he won’t budge, then take away the additional 3 items you purchased. He will budge, of course. That will usually give you another 5% - 10% in savings.
3. Don’t ever be pressured into buying anything on the street. Just say no. If a no won’t work and they start to pull at your shirt, then snap your arms and give them a ridiculously low price (1 ruppee for a t-shirt, for example). If they still won’t leave you alone, then don’t be afraid to use an authoritative voice. This tactic works when there is a lot of people around, since you don’t see venders in uncrowded spots. Be aware if it’s a deserted road, since they might not be a merchant at all.
4. Brand names of all kinds can be found in Bangalore– made in Thailand and are usually good facimilles, although the quality isn’t there. You’ll see all kinds of brands: Gucci, Chanel, Coach, Diesel, etc. Be aware that these are nowhere near the quality of the real thing (they start to fray after a day or two), but some items, such as t-shirts, are just as good as the real thing. Bags, not so much.
5. If buying pirated DVD’s, be sure to ask if it’s a good quality. They will usually be honest. That being that, buying a lot of stuff will make you friends really quickly.
6. Like anywhere else, if you are a former customer, expect better service. It’s also easier in Bangalore to be a good customer than in a lot of places, since everything is much more inexpensive.
7. NEVER agree to the first “agreed” upon figure the merchant throws out. Walk away. He might call out an even lower figure. Don’t worry about him making a good profit, he will never sell lower than what he needs.
8. If the merchant throws out the standard line of wanting to eat, needs to feed his family, etc, use some sarcastic acting. Remark at how big his store is and how many employees he has, and how you didn’t get to where you are by being an idiot. Or say that you agree, he will go out of business rather quickly if this one transaction will make or break him. The delivery is important– keep it light-hearted. Both of you will laugh and possibly drop the price down a little.
9. Keep two sets of wallets. One with a small amount of money, and the other with a lot of money. In fact, it’s better for haggling purpose to just pull money from your pocket. If the quoted figure is 600 rupees, maybe pull out a 500 and say that’s all you have. And walk away.

Remember at all times that if it’s not profitable for the merchant, he wouldn’t be selling it to you. So haggling won’t put him out of business– that’s his responsiblity. It’s your responsibility to not get ripped off.

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We hung up a little swing next to our office over a big tree. We had a crowd of dozens watching our every move, and afterwards, everyone wanted to join in on the fun. An elderly man walked by with his grandchildren and his face brimmed with pride as he plopped them on top of the swing.

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Certainly a hit!

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A fruit wagon. Cheap and ripe fruit.

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I thought the coloring of this apartment complex looked interesting. 100 feet away is the slums. Another 100 feet away is an amazing gated complex.

The gated complex.

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This is a few minutes walk from the gated complex. They were happy to take multiple photos and were thrilled and posed for many shots.

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This is right outside of a church. Notice the nails serving as a make shift barbed wire. The church is heavily protected and enclosed with thick stone walls. Around the corner is what appears to be a beggars den, and just a bit further is where people urinate and defacate.

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So I was eating at this sandwhich roll place (pretty good actually), when I noticed a scrawny kid peering through the window. As I stepped out, he gave the usual beggar hand pose. Knowing that many just want money (it’s quite a racket here, with people renting babies that cry so that people will feel more inclined to give them money or buy a trinket from them, and it’s run by various criminal organizations), I kindly said no, and offered to buy him food.

Uncharacteristically for beggars, and much of a change from the usual, and quite a shock to me, he actually said yes. So we walked to a near by store, and I did what every American does when he sees a scrawny kid asking for food. I offered to buy a nice expensive Snickers bar. He actually said no, and pointed to orange juice, which was a lot cheaper. I paid for the orange juice, one of those little paper cartons that juices used to come in, and I have to say, I’ve never seen anyone suck juice out of a box so quickly. He actually crunched up the box to get all of it out. He made a double bicep guesture in a show of bravado, and put the box in his pants, smiled, and waved good bye. I walked away shaking my head.

Contrary to popular belief, hot water is readily available everywhere. However, due to the highly educated workforce of Bangalore, the shower has been made complex far behind what a recent college graduates can handle. It’s been more than a week, and I’ve finally gotten the hang of how things work.

Most countries I’ve been to are not as extravagant with hot water systems compared to where I live in the United States. In normal everyday apartments in Bangalore (I am not referring to the mansions and 5-star hotels), an individual heating element usually resides in every shower. This will probably change, or has already changed in newly built dwellings. But if you happen to run across the one I use every day, here is a short primer. Your results may vary.

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This is the water that leads into the heating element. The heating element needs to be turned on (usually a switch on the wall). Some people leave it on all the time. That’s wasteful, and that’s me. Knobs Z and Y usually can be left on all the time. Knobs Z and Y are the main water supplies, with one going to the water heater, and the other going to the cold water regulator. Prior to taking a shower, turn on the heating element if not already on for at least 15 minutes to get the water hot.

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Knob A controls the hot water from the water heater. Knob C is the regular water without temperature control. Lever B when pulled to the left causes the water to emit from the faucet, while if pulled to the right, causes the water to emit from the shower head.

The normal standards of operation is to turn the lever to the right and then to turn the how faucet as far as it can go. It will emit cold water for approx 20 seconds, progressivly becoming hotter and hotter until almost boiling. Resist the temptation to turn knob C at this time.

Wait abou 3-4 minutes while the bathroom becomes filled with heat. Brush your teeth. Take off your clothes, brush your teeth again, scratch your genitals, etc.

After about 5 minutes, turn knob C on half a rotation or whichever you wish to experiment with first. The shower has odds much much like the blackjack table at Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas. The water will not get much colder at first. Just be patient, as operating the shower is a finess procedure.

Wait 1 minute. The water will become freezing cold. Suddenly. Ask me not how freezing cold water can come from a country known for its heat, but the water will be very cold.

Turn knob C about 1/2 back to the off position. The water will become luke warm or scalding, depending on how the Gods favor you today. Repeat pulling kbob C in whichever directions. This is when you will realize that the shower follows no rhyme or reason. Thankfully, this exercise will enlighten the soul and keep the brain sharp and get you really rinsed and ready to receive either hot or luke-warm water for the 5 or so minutes that the warmness will be consistant. When you hit upon this moment, realize that the window of opportunity is also random and subject to no rules.

This shower will never be understood by rational, delibritate analysis and is not be subject to normal laws of physics. To even jump in the shower requires a rather Kierkegaardian leap of faith. Thinking myself a clever man, I marked a spot on the knob with some tooth paste so I could hit the exact spot where it remains warm. And warm it was for a precious half a minute. Then without warning, a powerful eruption of burning enveloped my entire body, not unlike Tom Cruise enveloping Oprah, followed by an icy cold feeling on my genital area (I had scampered forward and turned around in a haphazard fashion to turn knob C).

May the fortunes smile happily upon you.

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You have two cows.

Anarchism: You have two cows. You steal your neighbor’s bull and ignore the government.

Communism: You have two cows. The government takes both of them and gives you part of the milk.

Bureaucracy: You have two cows. The government takes them both, shoots one, milks the other, charges you for the milk, and then pours it down the drain.

Capitalism: You have two cows. A big cattle company ousts you off the business. You sell your cows and work for the big business. The older punch line, truer to the American ideal, was “You sell one and buy a bull.” Addendum, by Pat Paulsen: Then put them both in your wife’s name and declare bankruptcy.

You have two cows.

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In India, they walk around together munching leisurely on food. People ignore them. Sometimes kids will stare. Someone told me that sometimes cows are let out if they are sick, because a cow dying in your home is very bad. These particular two cows seemed very healthy.

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I see two cows.

Rickshaws are often the most convenient way of travelling short distances. Although there are many laws that are supposed to protect you, in many cases, these laws are ignored.

Some helpful hints:

1. Know where the hell you are going, along with landmarks - Surprisingly, since the cities often change literally overnight, there are few landmarks that you can rely on and even the drivers often do not know of a specific spot.
2. Sometimes, if they know you are a foreigner, they will charge you a radically different price. - Be absolutely firm and rely mostly on the meter.
3. Always try to do it by meter, and say no to rickshaw drivers who try to charge time and a half or double the meter (usually at night). Keep walking, you’ll find a different tune. Don’t be afraid to walk out. It’s best to not go alone, of course.
4. Again, invest in some kind of map so the drivers can’t pull a fast one and go around in circles– this is quite common however– and hard to avoid.
5. The cost to ride a rickshaw in Bangalore is usually a minimum of 12 rupees with 6 rupees for every kilometer. 100 rupees is around 2 dollars.
6. While in Bangalore, timed meters (as in charging for time waiting in traffic) is rare and supposedly illegal, but some are modified to perform this function. If you see the meter ticking in traffic, you can either accept it or get off when it’s safe (pay the guy however).

Generally, after a meal, a hot bowl of water with pieces of lemon is often served. Do not drink this. I had a sip before everyone looked at me and laughed. The bowl of water is for washing your hands with the pleasant scent of lemons. Having a good sense of humor, I posed for this picture.

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Here is a small video I took of being in an auto rickshaw before my full post.

Compare it to the popular video on youtube (which I didn’t take).

The traffic isn’t even that bad on both of the videos.

I like

1. Temperature is awesome.
2. Cost of living is ridiculously inexpensive compared to the U.S.A. Things are just a lot cheaper here.
3. Rickshaws are a great way to get from one place to another.
4. The variety of food and night-life. Bangalore is a happening city. Venders on the streets, pirated DVD’s, Diesel bags that go for 10 bucks.
5. Night-life is definately fun.
6. People from all over the place From stressed out call-center managers to elite models to indians with british accents to designers to software developers to investment managers to venture capitalists– you’ll find them all.

I don’t like:

1. The pollution at times can sometimes be overwhelming. This is offset by some breeze.
2. Standard of living can be monstrouly low for many people. People can be seen sleeping on the street, and child beggers working for the criminal underground refuse food in favor of money,
3. Americans are wasteful with a lot of things, and that includes hot water. i wish I had more of it. Every bathroom usually has its own electric heater, but it doesn’t seem to last as long and it’s hard to get going, at least for now.

I’m getting used to:

1. In India as well as in Kuala Lumpur, each toilet bowl had a water spout on a hose. You basically spray your bum with it after you do your thing. At first, it seemed disgusting, but it does feel much cleaner down there. While most don’t wipe, I usually do both. Sprinkle and wipe. It also feels kind of good. Ahem.
2. Rickshaws. It will be explained in a future posting.
3. The head-bobble. A head bobble properly execute is done and in all directions. It means yes/no/I don’t know/okay, all in one. Everyone uses it.
4. Street dogs. Theres a lot of them. They avoid people or sleep during the day and fight each other during the night.
5. Peeing on the walls. Totally legal here.

If it at all possible– when your company asks you whether you mind having two stops, be sure to ask how long each layover is, and at which airport. Luckily, the airports I stayed at was rather pleasant.

Taipei, Taiwan

A rather ho-hum airport– some parts are modern, some parts are not. Most stores open around 8 AM. I stayed around 3 hours and I didn’t really appreciate that there were no food stores open, and no real places to rest.
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While using the people-movers, I noticed some interesting messages from the government.

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If you are visiting India and you will be with some American folk, I highly recommend purchasing some beef jerky from the many duty-free shops. They will definately appreciate it.

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

If there is one airport to get stuck at for the 8 hours, this is it. While assuredly this is probably not the best airport I’ve been to (Seoul/Inchun, Tokyo, and the Singapore airport come highly recommend by me or people I know), it holds it’s own rather well. The outside appearence of the landing strips were rather deceiving, as was the attendant curteously reminding everyone in the airplane that the smuggling of illegal drugs was a capital offense. The terminal I arrived at looked rather grungy from the outside and the landscape just outside of the ominous fences looked grungy and ill-kept.

But as soon as you walk in, you notice that everything is rather clean and well-kept. Wide open architecture and the presence of an entire mall should keep you occupied in comfort. There is a wide variety of restaurants are bars, and the Starbucks has all the same products as the ones in the US. I was asked if I wanted whipped cream on top of my ice-blended green tea frappachino, although in a slightly different accent, and although he called the whipped cream “milk cream”.
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I highly recommend the in-airport massage and relaxation therapy. For around 30 US dollars you can receive a 110 minute foot, neck, back, and shoulder massage. The attendant cracked all my toes, my neck, and my back. The foot massage is rather vigorous, but your feet comes out smelling clean and with the consistancy of ground sirloin.
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While I did not know this, you can also take the tour bus and visit downtown Kuala Lumpur.

Bangalore, India

For an airport that is in the hub of India’s IT revolution, it was rather unsettling that as I made myself to use the restrooms, that none of the doors worked and toilet paper was not to be found. The rotating rubber threads (and only one in my particular terminal) that the baggages emanated from creaked, and the layout was such that people had a hard time accessing their baggage. I fully expect the Indian government to fix this in the next few decades as Bangalore is a rather important tech city (then again, the San Jose, CA airport isn’t all that great– I suppose IT guys don’t get much love)
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Customs in Bangalore, India is a rather arbitrary affair. In fact, it gives the customs agent much leeway to charge whatever duty he wants on you if he thinks he can get it. For this reason, I highly recommend you do not carry much cash in your wallet or money bag. Instead, tuck it away safely in the bottom of your bag. There is a laptop exception, of course, but any other electronics are fair game for the rather small maximum value (something around $200 US– I will check later– but the rules were complex) amount that you can bring in. I do not recommend breaking any laws, and I believe it to be rather fortuitous that I suddenly forgot how to speak fluent English and I only had about 5 dollars in my wallet (the customs agent pointed to my bank cards, but for some reason the ATM’s did not take mastercard or visa– this will most likely change, so keep your bank cards away), and I did not remember the presence of my Nintendo DS Lite. I highly recommend digital cameras to be put away, as that was the tip-off for the man to take me aside. Once again, your results may vary and please follow all applicable laws in whichever countries you may stay at.
I personally overheard a japanese man paying $200 in order to bring some of his items in the country.
Expect to be hassled by crowds of auto-rickshaw drivers and various “guides” as soon as you claim your baggage. Fortunately, my company’s employees were there to shuttle me to our office and apartment complex. However, with taking a rickshaw, I highly recommend you know what you are getting to (a future post is hereby promised).

There is a fair amount of preparation involved in obtaining the necessary items in order to visit a country such as India. A Visa (not the credit card processing company, rather the permission from the government), tickets, clothes, medical supplies, medical vaccinations, are all highly recommended.

A few months in advance of your trip, vaccinations and a consultation with your doctor is highly recommended. Malaria medicines, antibiotics, as well as refills on medications you ordinarily take should be discussed. Dental work before you leave might not be such a bad idea, either.
A Visa and a passport can be obtained in as little as 2-3 days, or even overnight, but it’s highly recommended that you apply for one a few weeks in advance, as it becomes much more expensive. The Indian consulate requires you have your tickets already purchased before applying for anything. A variety of passport and visa expeditors can be found online– I searched for a local place in Los Angeles (as the Indian consulate does not have offices in this region), and went in person to qualm any fears of it being a shady organization. Be prepared to pay a variety of fees.

Helpful hint: If you are not being paid in India, (IE, your paychecks are still being paid in the US), I highly recommend a Tourist visa instead of a business visa, as the latter requires more fees and your chances of being granted a longer Visa such as a 1 year or a 5 year dwindles.
I recommend your carryons to be light, and all non-essentials should be placed in your check-in baggage. Do bring in your carry-ons: A extra tshirt, underwear, comfortable shorts, socks, deoderant, DVD player, portable gamins system, and perhaps your favorite toothbrush and soap and other essential cosmetics. Some tissue paper is HIGHLY recommended, as bathroom conditions may change depending on the airport you may stop at. Cash in TWO places (with most in a deep pocket in your bag, and a smaller amount in your wallet or money belt).

I recommend just 1 carry-on, preferably a nice comfortable backpack with plenty of padding. Lockers may or may not be found in various airports if you do have a lay-over and it’s much easier to maneuver if you aren’t lugging multiple baggages.

Be sure to check that you are in the right terminal before standing in line for 45 minutes. I stood in line for 45 minutes at Air China, before the person at the counter helpfully told me that I should have stood in line at China Airlines. It was a rather long walk to that terminal at Los Angeles International– I’d rather you not make the same mistake as well.

If you took the late flight (1:15 am, to be precise) as I did, it’s highly probable there will be some empty seats. Be sure to ask the various attendants on the airplane if you can move to a more favorable seat. Also, just because you can’t see something doesn’t mean it’s not there. For example, I spent 3 hours being bored before I realized that the screen in front of me that I could not control with my seat remote was just there for display, and that there was a pop-up screen below that tucked away. Note– many modern airlines have video screens across the board for all classes.

Don’t be afraid to ask if you aren’t sure of something– the people at the airports have seen plenty, and what you may ask isn’t going to be anything out of the ordinary.

On July 17th, I’ll be flying to Bangalore, India, for my job. I’ll try to detail the trip as much as possible as well as get back some of my writing skills I seem to have lost over the years. This information should be useful to people who are going to India, or thinking about going. For my friends throughout the years who used to remember me as a writer of impeccable standards, not to mention a clever, dry, and refreshing narrative style– okay, it’s going to take some time for me to remember how grammar and spelling works.

Some of the things I plan to write about:

• Planning the trip. Getting a Visa, passport, and getting plane tickets on the cheap. Immunization shots, malaria medicine. Indian doctors and dentists.
• Things to watch out for before getting on the airplane.
• Things to watch out for while on the airplane.
• Things I wish I brought on the airplane.
• Now you’ve landed in India. How do I get somewhere?
• Transportation in Bangalore
• Eating in Bangalore
• Things to do. Night life.